A Journey to Vietnam

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October 11, 2010

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The trip

Geneva-Zurich: twelve hours on board the enormous A380 Airbus almost gives the impression of not being in the air. And four more hours in one of the temples of consumerism: Singapore airport is completely dedicated to shopping( mostly electronics and designer clothes). On board, a passenger watching a video on demand had to endure two minutes commercials, mainly promoting the merits of the City-State in terms of taxes: no income tax, no inheritance tax, no VAT. Singapore is a little paradise that has been quite dehumanized.

Arrival in Hanoi

From the plane, I am looking down at a flat and flooded land. This is the end of the rainy season. I can see the fields, which are for the most part under water, and the villages that are very close to each other. All these are apparently the result of rigorous planning where private initiative apparently has not contributed at all.

No questioning for the Europeans going through immigration, but the dual nationals are questioned: what is the purpose of their visit, who are they visiting in the country, etc. A distinction which is not surprising, when we realize that Vietnam does not recognize dual nationality. For the local authorities, we can be only Vietnamese.

The city

While the center is relatively airy, it is especially due to its architecture: just a few buildings with more than three levels and many green spaces or uncultivated lands. There is apparently a potential for urban development as we understand it in Europe. On the other hand, the air is full of exhaust fumes that irritate the throat. It is hard to breathe. The rather effective but anarchic traffic of scooter-taxis is everywhere. Two thirds of the two-wheel drivers wear protective masks and – a miracle! – helmets, even if, of course, they are not always attached… The rest of the street belongs to taxis, as there are very few privately owned vehicles.

Purpose of the trip

For us, it was to contact the activists that were harassed by the authorities and to meet the families of three persons currently detained for political reasons. It is very important for them to know that people outside the country support them and know about their situation. In this fight for freedom of expression, the Vietnamese authorities must also know that they are being watched. The overseas Vietnamese community, particularly from Switzerland, keeps a constant pressure on the authorities not only to respect human rights but also to respect their own national law.

Security

The mission requires some precautions, not so much for me as I am, in principle, protected by my foreign status, but for those who will accompany me during the journey. The consequences will be much more serious for the people we are going to meet,. They take risks but they have assessed them carefully: it is their everyday life. If they wished to meet us, it is because, in the medium- and long-term, they see more advantages than inconveniences for the promotion of democracy and freedom in Vietnam. In the short term, it is possible that their situation could worsen. They know this and they are free to decide whether to meet us or not. This is one of the few freedoms of choice that they still have: whether or not to take any risk.

Precautions

In Geneva, as in Singapore, we sort out our documents to avoid displaying any phone number that could be a threat to our contacts in Vietnam, in case we are subject to an in-depth search. We clean out our wallets, hard disks and documents. First, the meetings will be organized via a contact abroad. Paranoia or simple precaution? We hope we never have to know.

Some dictatorships’ prosperity depends on tourism, business and industrial subcontracting for big outside firms, so they are sensitive to the image they give outside the country.

Tuesday, October 5

I met with two representatives of the Viet Tan Party in a luxury hotel in the capital. They travelled a long way to get there. They are cautious and visibly uncomfortable in the open space of the lobby. We find a quiet place, away from any curious ears and eyes, and they seem more relaxed. One of them smiles with his bad teeth and spontaneously makes a political comment: when his life and his freedom are daily threatened, taking care of his teeth has become secondary … Insightful.

The importance of external support

Our contacts are very happy and impressed that we have come from so far to meet with them and bring them a message of support from Geneva and on behalf of the Radical Party. We explain that freedom has been the foundation of our commitment in Geneva since 1847, a fight that began in the streets and continued through the institutions of the State. In addition to direct support, the purpose of our visit is also to let the outside world know how the people live when they do not fit into the mold of the local Communist Party.

Our interlocutors did not think that they are known by the authorities yet but they expect to be arrested someday. It is almost inevitable. Both of them work independently, as their political activities do not leave them enough time to have a full-time job.

Only non-violent action

During the entire meeting, we refrained from asking them to give any information that could present a security risk for them. Names, places, and figures remain vague. However, they told us about an event that we cannot put in writing at the moment. They can count on the support of much of the Vietnamese community abroad, thousands of whom are members of the external branch of the same opposition party. For my part, I only make a single condition: I can only support actions that are consistent with international regulations and human rights. They agree: No, the Viet Tan Party is not engaged in any violent action but only in political actions. Viet Tan aims to mobilize the population.

The Vietnamese Constitution is locked

On the political level, the problem comes from Article 4 of the 1992 Constitution of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam which provides that “the Communist Party of Vietnam – the avant-garde of the Vietnamese working class representing the interests of the working class and the working people of the entire nation, itself adhering to Marxism-Leninism and to Ho Chi Minh’s principles – is the force that assumes the leadership of the State of the society.” This confusion constitutionally maintained by the interests of the Nation and of the Party allows the Party to cancel any initiative that may develop outside the Party itself. The omnipresence of the bodies of this single party at every level of social organization, the press, business, sports and cultural organizations allows total control over the society.

Do foreign pressures and external demonstrations against the regime have any impact? Inside the country, people don’t know anything about this if they have no access to the internet. The media to which the majority of the people have access only report what the government wants. The internet is controlled, but the authorities cannot control everything.

The Vietnamese may practice their religions, but within state-controlled structures (and thus controlled by the Party). From this point of view, the Roman Catholics, a group to which our two contacts belong, is a thorn in the side of the State: the Clergy receives information and instructions from Rome, making it less controllable.

Corruption is widespread among the officials but it is useless to complain, as the judicial system itself follows the same logic.

Even the defense of the national territory is a delicate subject

Sometimes, even the most sincere patriotism goes against the Party’s interest: It is forbidden to assert that the Spratlys and Paracels islands belong to Vietnam. For some strategic reasons, the Vietnamese State refuses to claim them officially while they are occupied by China. For the Regime, this would be as if they were accusing their main regional support and admitting that they cannot efficiently protect the national territory.

The defense of the country is at the very top of the scale of values to be protected and treason is defined as one of the most serious crimes (Article 76 of the Constitution). Is it a coincidence that this article appears immediately after the article that defines the duties of Vietnamese living abroad? This is perceived as a threat to the overseas Vietnamese community.

Freedom of expression is criminalized

Our interlocutors are deeply concerned about removing the official charges of terrorism that are used against them by the State. Note that the smallest offense may lead to heavy prison sentences: Articles 78 through 92 of the Vietnamese Penal Code provide for numerous crimes such as “participation in an insurrectionary movement” (Art. 79), “obstruction of the implementation of socio-economic or solidarity policies” (Art. 86 and 87) and even “propaganda against the Socialist Republic of Vietnam“ (Art. 88). All these acts that are punished as infringements against the State would be described in Switzerland as a simple criticism of governmental policy. At this price, half of our press editorials can be punished by the Penal Code. It is illegal to campaign and to sign petitions. Taking popular initiative can also become high treason. This is not surprising when we read Article 1 of the Vietnamese Penal Code: “the Penal Code undertakes to protect the socialist regime, the right to control the people, the equality among the community…”

After almost three hours of discussion, our contacts leave to get their bus. We hope that they will not be questioned by the national security authorities or, even worse, arrested or detained. For safety reasons, we took no photos during our meeting.

Wednesday October 6

The case of Ms. Tran Khai Thanh Thuy

In another large hotel in the Vietnamese capital, we meet with Mr. Do Ba Tan, Mrs. Tran Khai Thanh Thuy’s husband. Mrs. Tran Khai Thanh Thuy is a journalist and a writer, an activist for democracy. She is a member of the Pen Club and monitored by Amnesty International. Like her husband, she is 50 years old. Harassed and questioned on multiple occasions in 2006, she was detained and sentenced to nine months in prison, i.e. the time of her detention. In September 2009, the authorities organized an “incident” in front of her house during which she was harassed by “other persons”. Because she fought back and defended herself, she was charged with assault and battery and arrested immediately. In January 2010, she was sentenced to three and a half years in prison. She suffers from diabetes and from tuberculosis. The Vietnamese community in Switzerland gave us some medicine to bring her; otherwise, her treatment would not continue while in detention.

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According to her husband, the authorities are used to organizing this kind of scenario. After her first condemnation, she was harassed by a howling crowd gathered by the police. In a country where propaganda has been working at full capacity for 80 years, it is relatively easy for the authorities to tell groups of young people “what they have to do” with the insurance of impunity.

Do Ba Tan arrived a good hour late. Mechanical problems, bad address? Or simply the time it takes to scatter those who are watching him. He tells us that his wife was “processed” by National Security, whereas his case, deemed less important, was delegated to the local police of his district. Still, he is not comfortable in the lobby. From the terrace of the eighteenth floor where we overlook the city and its insane pollution, he seems more comfortable.

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A very slow development under international pressure

He believes that the international pressure and the fuss made about cases such as his wife’s make the situation change. Over the past ten years, he has been able to feel the pressure ease a little. The authorities are not insensitive to what people say outside the country. They need recognition to establish commercial relationships and do not wish to join the roles of exiled nations such as North Korea or Turkmenistan. From this point of view, the more we can say about the situation in Vietnam from outside the country the more positive the desired result can be. Despite the risks, he and his wife are happy to contribute and are grateful for this.

For his part, he was only given a suspended prison sentence of two years, following the setup in September 2009 in front of his house, but the sentence came along with an exceptionally long probation period: almost four years. In Vietnam, there is a particular way to control individuals socially: the company committees or business committees. Only a teacher, his case is overseen by a committee at his school, led by a member of the Party. The latter may impose further penalties on him depending on his “behavior”.

A fixed trial

But what makes him say that his wife’s trial was fixed? He saw acts of the trial that had been drafted before the hearings. His lawyer pointed out fifteen points in the procedure that were all rejected without exception or explanation. And finally, Tran Khai Thanh Thuy was transferred to her current place of detention, 180 kilometers far from Hanoi, at the end of her trial without the fifteen-day waiting period during which an appeal can be filed. As if everything was already settled while the judgment was not still enforceable. This was not all: inside the prison, all the prisoners, without exception, were hostile to Tran. The authorities had spread the word, which is rather easy with this “captive” audience.

Do Ba Tan looks sad and almost happy at the same time. Not at the same time of course, but alternately. Sad because he only sees his wife once a month, through a window and an intercom. Knowing that we were going to try to accompany him for his October visit, he postponed the date one week. Let’s hope that our presence will not have any negative impact on his visitation rights. He is aware of this and accepts the risk.

Paradox: persecutions give new reasons to live

He sometimes looks happy. The explanation comes later, in an aside: this tragic adventure gave him a reason to live; he discovered his capacity to express his feelings. He has grown up as a result of the difficulties. As we look at him, there is no doubt that this small bird has real inner strength.

His only regret is not being able to welcome his visitors from Europe. Obviously moved, in the elevator he resumes the wariness and the typical behavior of people who are afraid. They are not afraid of what might become of them, as they know this could happen at any moment, but they are afraid of that moment where everything could change.

This is a particular feeling that I personally experienced in Lebanon in 1989 when I was a delegate of International Committee of the Red Cross. It was not the consequence of the shells that we were afraid of. We only fear the noise of the one that is intended for us.

Thursday, October 7: the city and the preparations for the celebration

A meeting is canceled because our interlocutor has sprained his ankle. I take this opportunity to visit the city center. The city is actively preparing the closing ceremonies for the 1,000th anniversary of the City of Hanoi which will be officially celebrated next Sunday, the 10th, with a big military parade in the grand Soviet tradition. The city is covered with red flags with a yellow star. One every ten meters, this makes hundreds of thousand flags cover every inch of the city.

Decoration vs. investment?

All the official buildings are decorated with enormous banners exalting the glory of the regime and its success. The parks and the squares have dozens of giant screens picturing the glory of the City, Uncle Ho (Chi Minh), and the Communist Party. The Party (or is it the State? We don’t really know any more), has spent about 4.5 billion dollars for the celebrations. One must ask if it is not an enormous waste, as nearly nothing will benefit the population. All this propaganda will go obsolete or will be removed and destroyed. Nothing will remain. Investing in true collective public transportation; in purification of the air; or in the restoration of the roads or electric networks certainly would have benefited the economy and the wellbeing of the people more, both of which is so dear to the Regime. A film has been specially produced by the Chinese for the occasion of the celebrations.

But what does the population really think?

As a timid incursion of capitalism, we can find the brand logos of a big state-owned or a regional company in certain places. The actors, singers and dancers seem satisfied that something happens, but are also vaguely required to. They apparently exercise their “art” under close supervision. These very large-scale organized festivities, this popular jubilation, at the same time moving and terribly mechanical, remind me so much of the scenes that I witnessed in Uzbekistan or in Turkmenistan, and to a lesser degree in Rwanda or in Syria. Only the cult of personality is lacking here. Except for Uncle Ho, there are no visible leaders.

Then a question comes to my mind: What does the average citizen think of all this? Is he authorized to think? How can he form his own opinion while 80% of the population has never known anything other than this rather heavy and childish propaganda? The average citizen is primarily kept in the ignorance of anything that might give him ideas. It is not a coincidence if the political prisoners have all been arrested for circulating information, via banners, writings or blogs. The real threat to the regime is that the people might be informed (See Saturday morning meeting).

What economic development?

Starting at the very bottom, Vietnam is experiencing real economic development, which seems to be both controlled and total anarchy. While it is formally organized to facilitate cooperation, Vietnamese society seems to allow the ferocious individualism. Everybody cheats everyone else and takes advantage whenever possible. I was told that the elders don’t really have any more control over the young people.

Friday, October 8: the prison

This is the day for Mr. Do Ba Tan to visit his wife, Mrs. Tran Khai Thanh Thuy. Mrs. Tran Khai Thuy has been detained in the prison of Thanh Hoa, 180 kilometers from Hanoi, for a year now. Only a teacher, her husband usually asks a chauffeur to drive him there, a current and careful practice when you know the traffic in Hanoi and even worse, the congested roads of the suburbs.

Hallucinating circulation

It is so diverse. Old men riding their bicycles and wearing conical hats or green colonial helmets (the distinction of the Northern troops during the war); taxis; buses; large four-wheels belonging to officials who seem to have managed well; and mostly the flow of Japanese or Chinese motorcycles which the Vietnamese ride with an hallucinating negligence. Often without helmets and just as often speaking on their mobile phones, motorcyclists are riding with one to three passengers seated behind them, and sometimes as many in front of them. It is common to see a father, his wife and one, two or even three children on the same motorcycle. From babies to teenagers, always without helmets. Between three and six years old, children are placed in front of the driver and hug the center of the handlebar. Infants sleep between the adults. One trembles at the idea of a head-on collision.

Noise pollution also

A good half of motorcyclists are wearing cloth masks to protect themselves from the dusty atmosphere. But what particularly strikes and irritates the throat is the air saturated by exhaust fumes from hundreds of thousands of poorly maintained motorcycles. The noise is deafening as all the drivers honk almost constantly, as if they had given up any effort to see the traffic and were content just to hear traffic coming. At this rate, it would indeed be suicidal not to make noise. All this is well synchronized. I have been on one of these motorcycles two or three times as a passenger, and I recommend full confidence, a strong belief in the existence of an afterlife, or fatalism. Any other attitude would be insane.

180 kms in eight hours

That morning, the husband of the prisoner has no driver and drives himself. We have to meet in the suburbs at 5:45 a.m. We eventually realize his limited driving experience, but he accepts some safety advice. After an hour’s drive, he takes a bad turn and violently slams his bike against a big stone jutting out of the soil. Large oil leakage, call to Hanoi. A car with a driver arrives three hours later, so that, having left Hanoi at 6:00 a.m., we arrive at the prison only eight hours later.

Negotiations at the entrance

The place is very discreet. From the street, one can only make out the entrance door, an administration building and a tree-lined driveway leading to the prisoners’ quarters. As the very isolated area is surrounded with ponds and lakes, the walls detain not only the prisoners but also the distance and social control. The husband gets authorization to visit and we start arguing with the officer in charge. We explain our presence in Vietnam, our origin, the interest expressed by the Radical Party of Geneva towards freedom and in particular towards the prisoner Tran Khai Thanh Thuy and our request to meet her. The idea is to get the message across that international nations are watching this prisoner and her inmates. As it is irrelevant to explain the subtleties of the Swiss parties, we only explain that the PRG is one of the four governmental parties in Switzerland. We sometimes use my title as the editorialist of The Genevois newspaper or the title of General Secretary, knowing that these words could sound important to communist ears.

After a few minutes, we are told, as expected, that authorization for foreigners to visit must be delivered directly through the Foreign Ministry of the Vietnamese government. The two hours spent in front of the prison allow us to notice that all the guards have superior motorcycles well above average quality. This leads us to think without a doubt that their income is also above average.

Debriefing on the visit

When the husband comes out, he tells us that the visit was tense: Mrs. Tran Khai Thanh Thuy was informed of our presence at the door and about the international support for her, and she was very happy and excited. She was upset because of her detention, because of the guards and because of her condemnation. Just like every visit. It seems that her very strong character enables her to carry on her fight, but, at the same time, it also makes her life difficult.

An important point in the course of the family visit: two state employees are present and they note everything that is said during the visit. They prepare a report which is signed by the visitor and the prisoner before they leave. This is a condition for visits that I never experienced during my fifteen years of visits to prisons with the Red Cross.

Importance of external support

Mrs. Tran Khai Thanh Thuy is very grateful to the international community, the overseas Vietnamese and her day visitors for their support. According to her husband, she seemed invigorated in her fight when he left her. The Vietnamese community of Western Switzerland also sends her medical supplies and medicine that she cannot obtain in detention.

During the four-hour drive back, we also learn that all prisoners except for the three political prisoners are entitled to make a phone call. The reason: this right is connected with good conduct, which includes, in the Vietnamese sense of the term, recognition of one’s errors, which political prisoners don’t of course recognize.

Anecdotally, Mr. Do Ba Tan spent the whole day wearing a polo shirt from the Radicals of the City of Geneva to great effect, matched with a cap of the Party secured on his head. A definitive first.

Saturday, October 9: family and demonstration

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On Saturday, we meet once again in the lobby of a luxury hotel, a place where, we believe, the security would be reluctant to intervene. We are meeting with three women and a man who are close relatives to persons that have been detained since September 2008, when an ASEAN summit took place. The four, writers, bloggers, teachers, and engineers spread information “harmful to the Party, to the State and to the Vietnamese People”, a serious offense under the Penal Code for which they were all condemned to anywhere between three to six years in prison, along with many years of probation. Demonstrations also took place during the relay of the Olympic flame in Hanoi before the Beijing games. We met with the following persons:

  • Mrs. Nguyen Thi Nga (Detained writer Nguyen Xuan Nghia’s spouse).
  • Mrs. Ly Thi Tuyet Mai (Detained teacher Vu Hung’s spouse).
  • Mrs. Nguyen Thi Huyen Trang (Detained engineer Pham van Troi’s spouse).
  • Mr. Ngo Duy Quyen (Detained student Ngo Quynh’s brother).

Grounds of arrest

Severe sentences are ordered for activists who have committed no violence against persons or properties. Moreover, the three statements which led to prison terms for the four prisoners above were the following:

  • “Price increases are causing difficulties for the population”
  • “to lose the Spratly Islands is being unjust to the ancestors”
  • “Vietnam needs a multiparty system”

It is obvious that this is excessive. But after thinking about it, we understand why the authorities would react badly. To cast a shadow on economic development, the main success claimed by the Party, is serious. To criticize the regime for not defending the national territory simultaneously puts the regime in a difficult position towards its cumbersome and rich Chinese associates, and again taking the nationalist theme which moves each citizen makes the charge of treason almost anachronistic. Finally, promoting a multiparty system is counter to Article 4 of the Vietnamese Constitution which places the Vietnamese Communist Party as the keystone of the whole system, above the State.

From the separate and group conversations we had, we learn that two of the prisoners were punished to three months of isolation (24 hours a day) for having “caused agitation within the prison”. They had protested that their cell was placed next to the prison’s brick-making kiln, which caused a permanent temperature of 41 degrees Celsius and produced toxic fumes that made everybody sick.

How to twist a trial legally

We also learn that, in principle, public trials took place in the presence of only one or sometimes two members of the family. Mobile phones were confiscated during the search at the entrance to the court. There is nothing surprising about that. What was more surprising was that the rest of the “public” frequently used their mobile phones during the hearing. The public probably consisted of plainclothes policemen to whom the search does not apply. The arguments by the lawyers were frequently interrupted by the same “public”. It is also not rare that the volume of the sound system in the court is lowered several notches when a lawyer speaks. One of them even left the hearing because he was not permitted to express himself. The official press only reported the sentences.

Families under pressure

The families of the prisoners are watched and often followed. The son of one of the female prisoners, who is a student of geology, was forced to sign a document in which he agreed not to demonstrate like his father during the October 2010 celebrations.

Our four contacts were initially anxious about this meeting, but after one hour of conversation, they became more relaxed and they were happy to learn that others were going to continue their support abroad. Numerous gifts and documents were delivered to them, as well as copies of the Genevois newspaper with the story of the grand opening of the Boat People Memorial at the Grand Saconnex in Spring 2010 in the presence of François Longchamp, President of the council of the State of Geneva.

Meeting point at noon

We were informed by a contact outside Vietnam that we should be at a certain place in the center of Hanoi at noon, near the preparations for the celebrations to be held the next day. Around 12:05 p.m., dozens of young people and a few adults took out blue T-shirts printed with slogans in big white letters in the colors of the Viet Tan opposition party. We mingled with the demonstrators and the curious, well aware that the police would intervene very soon. We were photographed with the demonstrators and made several videos of the scene in order to inform the public of what happened.

It should be noted that the topics were not at all controversial: the Viet Tan Party commemorates the millennium of Hanoi and informs the population of the Chinese threat against national integrity (defense of the Spratly Islands). We took off after about ten minutes to protect the images taken on site. The faces had yet not been blurred and the confiscation of such images could cause harm to the participants and to their families.

Inside an illegal demonstration

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Several dozen uniformed and plainclothes policemen intervened swiftly, seizing the propaganda material. Two correspondents from international press agencies arrived on the spot rather quickly and conducted some interviews. No violence or arrests at the time. A police follow-up should be conducted after the weekend celebrations, and after the correspondents leave. We will try to learn about the consequences for the demonstrators over the next few days through the local networks.

It is rather strange to be among people who have the courage to risk so much for an ideal. You get a better sense of how suddenly life can change. And to what extent we in Switzerland enjoy a privileged situation where the worst enemy of activism is indifference. We can only pay an immense tribute to those who made this choice, all the more so, since they have chosen the non-violent route. This is the only condition that we made for our presence in this place: We did not want to participate in something that could be counter to international laws in the area of freedom of expression and of the exercise of that right. We would not have agreed to any destruction or violence.

To follow the situation: click on this website link: http://www.viettan.org/

We learned on Sunday that Mrs. Vo Hong, an Australian national activist, was arrested at the airport just before boarding. We currently have no news from her.

For security reasons, a meeting with a lawyer, who had been frequently threatened by the security force, has been canceled for the evening. Similarly, it was decided to avoid any public statements prior to leaving the country on Sunday.

Economy and corruption

Despite the collectivist ideology, most of the Vietnamese follow the route of every man for himself. Whenever possible, prices are inflated, not only to take advantage of a rich and supposedly naïve foreigner;the practice happens all the time. Even when it is only a question of helping a vehicle stuck in the middle of the road, passers-by will negotiate a reward before doing anything, and they will threaten to put the car back where it was if they are not paid satisfactorily.

Hotels prices and other standard prices such as parking for a motorcycle were three to ten times higher at the end of the week of festivities. Taxis no longer take customers for short trips. According to our local contacts, corruption absorbs approximately half of the profits of any activity, a practice denounced by several imprisoned opponents.

Sunday, October 10

After almost a week in Hanoi, we did not see any beggars, abandoned children, homeless, or shoeshine boys. We checked and it seems that they all disappeared during the previous week. Moreover, the Chief of Police proudly claims this as a gift made by his service to the City of Hanoi for its 1,000th anniversary. During the week, it did not seem that international tourists were streaming towards the capital. Ha Long Bay continues to be the focus of international tourism, both European and intra-Asian.

A colorful, grandiose, futile and plastic ceremony…

We watched a part of the televised broadcast of the official ceremony which took place on Sunday morning, October 10th, between 7:45 a.m. and 9 a.m. When asked about this strange schedule, a contact just said that “the early bird catches the worm”. The real explanation is probably that it would have been impossible to gather the tens of thousands of participants in the middle of the day. The traffic would never allow it. And it was not to preserve the freshness of the banners and tanks covered in flowers. No risk there, everything was plastic…

Rolin Wavre
General Secretary of the Radical Party of Geneva

Hanoi / Singapore / Geneva, 4-11 October 2010.

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